DAY 3 (26th November 2023) – Rataná Restaurant and Duomo di Milan
The original plans for Day 3 were a little different from what transpired, but as adventurers, we sorta have to expect changes at the last moments. We did have one fixed certainty, which was to have lunch at the high-end Rataná Restaurant. You absolutely have to book in advance if you want a slot. The visit to the famous Duomo di Milan building was a must, and we timed that for the evening dusk period, so that we could catch the building in different lighting.
Since it was a Sunday, the roads along the Navigli canale were bustling with morning market vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs, trinkets, potteries, art, mini sculptures, old books, articles of clothing, etc. There’s a certain air to these kinds of morning markets….
Panarello Pastry Shop
This was the first of the unplanned stops. Getting off at the Moscova Metro Station, we were immediately overwhelmed by the wonderful aroma emanating from the pastry shop at the corner. The fact that we already had a scrumptious breakfast of noodle-in-a-cup, didn’t stop us from sampling the pastries, breads and cakes. The huge crowd inside says it all.
Now We Know
When you come to a new place, how to you decide which restaurants or eateries to go to? The reviews online may not necessarily reflect the reality, or sometimes there isn’t even a review because the eatery is new or obscure. The easiest way to know if the place is good is to look at the number of locals who frequent the place. The more locals, the better the food… Locals know best!
Porta Garibaldi
Now, to walk off the calories! Down the road was the third of the arches – Porta Garibaldi, a Neoclassical arch built in 1825 to commemorate the visit of Francis I of Austria. It was reconstructed and dedicated to Garibaldi in 1860. The inscription at the top facing the south is loosely translated as:
ON THESE DOORS
MADE FAMOUS BY THE NAMES OF THE VICTORS
OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE WHO VOLUNTEERED TO FIGHT
DUCE GARIBALDI
THEY INAUGURATED THE SECOND REVIVAL IN 1859
THE PEOPLE OF MILAN
GREETED THE GREYING HERO WHO RETURNED AFTER 21 YEARS
AH, THAT GOODBYE WAS THE LAST
BUT HE ETERNALIZES IT IN HEARTS MORE THAN IN BRONZE
THE GRATITUDE OF THE FATHERLAND
A fitting tribute to one of Italy’s greatest heroes – Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was instrumental in the unification of Italy. Meanwhile, the inscription on the north side says:
HERE IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE ENEMY’S NAME
THE IRON OF THE ITALIAN YOUTH
ENGRAVED IN THE VICTORIES OF COMO
THE PEOPLE OF MILAN
GREETED THE GREYING HERO WHO RETURNED AFTER 21 YEARS
AH, THAT GOODBYE WAS THE LAST
BUT HE ETERNALIZES IT IN HEARTS MORE THAN IN BRONZE
THE GRATITUDE OF THE FATHERLAND
Piazza Gae Aulenti and Bosco Verticale
Just a short walk ahead was the Piazza Gae Aulenti, a very modern-looking set of buildings surrounding a piazza with office buildings, retail outlets and restaurants. We were not really interested in shopping, hence we didn’t really spend too much time there, even though we were still quite early for the lunch booking. We made a beeline to the Bosco Verticale instead.
An architectural wonder (by Boeri Studio) with sustainable features makes these buildings stand out amid the concrete and glass buildings in the immediate locale. The trees, plants and shrubs growing in the two buildings are said to be equivalent to over 30,000 square metres of woodland and undergrowth. Imagine the amount of carbon dioxide it absorbs from the atmosphere, while returning oxygen to the air.
These two places were not in our itinerary either.
Rataná Restaurant
We agreed early on before the trip that we had to at least have one full-on sit-down Italian meal, regardless of the price. For this, we had to trust the reviews on Google and selected this restaurant. We were not disappointed. The three of us each took the 5-course tasting menu paired with 5 glasses of wine (only €115 per person). I’ll let you enjoy the photos (mainly because I can’t remember much about the food individually, but I recall they were fantastic in taste and presentation). The wine was good too.
With full stomachs and feeling slightly tipsy, we made our way slowly to Milan’s Chinatown, which was basically just one very long street of Chinese businesses, selling Asian cuisine, souvenirs and all things Chinese that cater to Chinese diaspora in Milan. On a Sunday afternoon like this day, it was packed with tourists – not unlike us three in appearance and looks! We spent a fair bit of time here looking for bargains and stuff that we could bring home for family and friends.
Duomo di Milano, Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II and Teatro Alla Scala
A trip to Milan would be incomplete without a visit to the Duomo di Milano and the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II. We did not get the tickets to go inside to visit the Duomo, which is the main cathedral of Milan, but the views outside are stunning both in daylight and at night. It is an architectural marvel and a sight to behold. Unfortunately, many parts of the building were under repairs or renovations, but I guess a building this old needs some touch up now and again.
Built and added upon over a period of almost six centuries (from 1386 to 1965), this is the biggest cathedral in Italy and the third largest in the world, dedicated to the Nativity of St. Mary. Throughout the centuries more than 75 engineers and architects from all over Europe were summoned or called upon to lend ideas and inspiration during the construction period. The Duomo is currently the seat of the Archbishop of Milan.
Meanwhile, just a stone’s throw away is the Galeria Vittorio Emmanuele II, a shopping haven where all the top fashion brands in Europe have an outlet within. Milan being one of the fashion capitals of Europe, it is no surprise then, that this is the place to be for the fashionistas. We went in for a bit of look around, and it was packed!
The building took twelve years to complete, between 1865 to 1877, and was named after the first king of the Kingdom of Italy – Victor Emmanuel II. The building is aligned from north to south and had extensions at the centre to the east and to the west. The roof of the interior of the building uses arching glass and cast-iron frames, which was a popular design choice in the 19th century throughout Europe for these kinds of buildings. A huge glass dome cast its domain over the central area, fitting nicely into the theme of the building.
At the northern exit of the Galleria, there is a Leonardo da Vinci Museum, which showcases all of his works, inventions and writings (except the Last Supper, of course). Just outside, is the Piazza della Scala where the statue of Leonardo da Vinci towers over the area. His contributions in art and engineering are still felt to this day, and modern Italy still reveres this great historical figure.
Across the road from the Piazza is the Teatro Alla Scala, which houses many opera shows, ballet performances, musicals and theatrical performances almost all year round. Inaugurated in August 1778, many of the finest musicians and instrumentalists have performed here. If you are a fan of such classical arts, then a visit to any of the shows at the Teatro is a good choice to consider.
After taking photos of the night scenes of the Duomo di Milano, it was time to head back to via Magolfa. By bus.
Summary for Day 3
Once again, we did quite a fair bit of walking throughout the day, visiting some planned and some unplanned places, except for when using the Metro and bus to and from our temporary residence. The weather was kind to us once again, not a drop of rain, which made walking around that much easier. Some of the places we visited on this day would be considered mandatory if we want to say that we have been to Milan.
